RADICISPANDEX CORPORATION
TECHNICAL INFORMATION BULLETIN
TYPE S-85
POLYETHER SPANDEX
FIBER TECHNOLOGY


 

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction

Physical Properties

Thermal Properties

Molding Recommendations

Heat Setting Recommendations

Steam Autoclaving Recommendations

Heat Setting Elastic Fabrics Guidelines

Chemical Resistance Properties

Dyeing Characteristics and Recommended Practices

Recommended Handling and Processing Practices

Recommended Knitting Tensions and Covering Drafts

Recommended Warping Conditions

Recommended Storage Conditions

Launderability and Resistance to Dry Cleaning

Merge Numbers and I.D. Numbers

Standard Packaging

Tube Color Reference

Summary

 

 

INTRODUCTION

Type S-85 is a polyether clear spandex that is used in tricot knitted elastic fabrics, Raschel knitted elastic fabrics, circular knitted elastic fabrics and ladies pantyhose applications.

Type S-85 spandex imparts stretch properties to fabrics for a variety of end uses such as intimate apparel, swimwear, activewear, outerwear, high-tech fabrics and ladies hosiery. It was first offered commercially in 1985.

Type S-85 is a polyether based spandex that offers the following properties:

  • Excellent strength, elongation and modulus.
  • Flex life.
  • Compression Power.
  • Abrasion Resistance.
  • Good acid dyeability for union dyeing to prevent and reduce grin - through.
  • Good resistance to discoloration from atmospheric contaminants (gas fade).
  • Excellent resistance to hydrolysis in damp storage, acid and alkaline wet processing conditions such as bleaching, reactive Dyeing and vat dyeing.
  • Excellent resistance to oxidation and ultra violet light exposure. Test results available upon request.

 

 

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

 Average physical properties of current Type S-85 spandex deniers are listed below.

Type-85 Spandex Typical Average Physical Properties

Deniers Available

 Attribute

20

30

40

55

70

125

140

Breaking Elongation (%)

550

550

550

600

600

600

650

Modulus (gram/denier)   2nd Cycle Outgoing

@ 200%

@ 250%

 

.070

.113

 

.063

.114

 

.061

.108

 

.052

.085

 

.052

.082

 

.049

.073

 

.045

.064

Specific Gravity (gm/cc)

1.04-1.06

1.04-1.06

1.04-1.06

1.04-1.06

1.04-1.06

1.04-1.06

1.04-1.06

Sticking Temperature

Degrees F

Degrees C

 

428

220

 

428

220

 

428

220

 

428

220

 

428

220

 

428

220

 

428

220

Moisture Regain

Less than 1%

Less than 1%

Less than 1%

Less than 1%

Less than 1%

Less than 1%

Less than 1%

 

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THERMAL PROPERTIES

Molding Fabrics Recommendations

The molding operation is used on knitted fabrics where a sewn seam is undesirable, such as a bra cup application. One must have enough fabric stretch in the wale and course (warp and weft) direction in order to prevent the non-elastic fibers (i.e., nylon or polyester) from cutting and rupturing the spandex fibers as the fabric is stretched during molding.

Recommended Fabric Properties for Molding

Wale stretch 210%, plus or minus 10%

Course stretch 110%, plus or minus 10%

Total fabric stretch 300 to 320% with 95 to 100% minimum.

Molding Temperatures

Commercial molding is normally performed on 8 layers of fabric.

Other time and temperatures ideal for molding are as follows:

  • 385° F (196° C) for 60 Sec.
  • 390° F (199° C) for 30 to 45 Sec.

 

Finishing Chemicals

In preparing fabrics for molding, chemicals which show minimum shade change on exposure to heat should only be used. Soft Acrylic or Polyvinyl acetate thermoplastic resins can be used satisfactorily for hand builders.

Silicone dispersions can be used as softeners or hand modifiers with the resins.

Thermosetting resins based on Melamine or Triazine Formaldehyde condensate discolor and are therefore not recommended.

Dyed fabric to be molded should be dyed with acid type dyes for minimum shade change. Disperse type dyes are not recommended.

Fluorescent whitening agents of the acid-type (Stilbene derivatives) are recommended. Disperse type opticals are more susceptible to shade change.

White fabrics should be finished on the acidic side (pH 5.0) with citric acid for maximum whiteness retention.

Maximum molding depth is 5.0 inches (127 mm.)

 

Heat Setting Fabrics Containing Type S-85 Spandex (Dry Heat)

Heat setting fabrics containing Type S-85 is necessary in order to stress-relax the fabric, set the final fabric width and final fabric weight. If heat setting were not performed, the fabric would shrink to an unacceptable degree during dyeing, and fabric weight would be too heavy. The net effect of heat setting is to re-denier the spandex to a lower denier and produce a more stable fabric.

Type 6'6 Nylon / Type S-85 spandex--375 to 400° F (191 to 204° C) 15 to 60 Sec.

Type 6 Nylon / Type S-85 spandex----355 to 365° F (179 to 185° C) 15 to 60 Sec.

Temperatures and time depend on fabric weight and construction. Sample trials are recommended.

 

Steam Autoclaving Recommendations

Temperatures above 240° F (115° C) are not recommended, significant tensile loss of Type S-85 will occur. Steaming cycles of 2 to 4 minutes are recommended. Sample trials are recommended.

The process is usually performed on circular knit fabric that is intended for tubular put-up, or for those mills that do not have tenter frame capability. It is performed in an autoclave with steam in a batch operation.

 

 

HEAT SETTING ELASTIC FABRICS GUIDELINES

The following is recommended for developing new styles of fabrics.

Many wide fabrics containing Type S-85 are constructed so that heat setting is required to produce a satisfactory fabric with acceptable dimensional stability. Included in this category are:

  • Fabrics showing excessive shrinkage as determined in a preliminary test in boiling water. Take a one yard cut and boil it 10 minutes in 0.5% (of fabric weight, O.W.G.G.) Synthetic detergent and rinse, then air dry flat at 180° F (82° C). Measure the maximum hand stretch. Use a greige fabric.
  • Knit structures containing a high percentage of Type S-85.
  • Woven structures in which the desired finish width is close to the reed width. Fabrics with a high stretch potential that require low stretch in the finished state, such as ski pants.
  • When the desired finished width is greater than the greige or jammed width or when a greater fabric yield is desired. When the off-loom width is greater than the finished width, use a hot wet pretreatment to reduce the width to manageable dimensions for heat setting.
  • Heat setting is designed to be less than 100% efficient.

 

This means the finished fabric will contract upon subsequent relaxation. Therefore, heat setting should be followed by a wet finishing process to permit the residual shrinkage and relaxation to occur and to develop the full stretch potential. This usually happens in the dyeing operation.

To determine the width at which a fabric should be heat-set under given conditions of time and temperature, a sample of greige fabric or a partially relaxed fabric sample should be heat-set 10 to 15% above the desired finished width. After heat setting, the sample should be treated in boiling water for 5 to 10 minutes and relax-dried. Heat setting efficiency or per-cent retention of heat-set width is calculated by dividing the finished width of the sample by the heat-set width.

Finished Width of Sample, Divided By Heat-set Width of Sample, x 100 = % Heat setting Efficiency

or for example:

52 Inches, Divided By 57 Inches, x 100 = 91% Heat setting Efficiency

 

If the desired finished width is 55 inches, the width at which the fabric should be heat-set can be adjusted accordingly.  For example:

100, Divided By % Heat setting Efficiency, x (Desired finished width) = Heat setting width

or for example:

100 Divided By 91 x 55 inches = 60 inches

 

 

CHEMICAL RESISTANCE PROPERTIES

Type S-85 spandex is resistant to a wide range of chemicals and processes normally encountered in fabric dyeing and finishing. However, there are particular chemicals, yarn finishes and machine oils that will damageType S-85 and other polyether based spandex fibers. These are:

Chlorine Bleaches

  • Bleaches based on Sodium or Calcium Hypochlorite or Sodium Chlorite (Textone) discolor and degrade Type S-85 spandex and therefore are NOT recommended..

Peracetic Acid

  • Not recommended. Yellow Type S-85 spandex.

Oxalic Acid

  • Not recommended. Yellow Type S-85 spandex.

Formic Acid

  • Not recommended as it can degrade Type S-85 spandex.

Lubricants & Oils

  • Lubricants or oils containing unsaturated fatty acids or esters can degrade Type S-85 spandex through oxidative degradation. Therefore, yarn lubricants, machine and needle oils containing unsaturated fatty acids or esters must be avoided. If a lubricant must be used, it is recommended that it be submitted to RADICISPANDEX Corporation’s Technical Service group for testing. It is also recommended that the coning oil supplier be contacted.

Dye Carriers

  • Carriers that are based on Phenol will degrade Type S-85 spandex and must be avoided.
  • Carriers based on Dimethyl Ester of Terephthalic Acid and Phthalamide are acceptable.

 

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DYEING CHARACTERISTICS AND

RECOMMENDED PRACTICES

Type S-85 spandex has excellent dyeability with Acid type dyes. When used with nylon fibers, fabrics will have little, if any, "grin-through" of the spandex when the fabric is stretched. This unique feature of Type S-85 yields fabrics of good union shades.

Type S-85 spandex has affinity for the following classes of dyestuffs:

  • Acid
  • Neutral Acid
  • Pre-metallized
  • Chrome

 

Type S-85 spandex exhibits poor affinity for dyes substantive to cellulosic fibers. Direct, Fiber Reactive, Vat and Sulfur dyes should be first screened for dye or staining effects depending on fabric construction.

Tensions must be kept at a minimum in dyeing and finishing to preserve the inherent elastic fabric properties of spandex, Processing temperatures should also be kept as low as possible consistent with producing quality elastic fabrics.

 

Disperse Dyeing Polyester and Type S-85 Spandex Fabrics

Recommended dyeing temperature is no higher than 225° F (107° C) for lengthy dye cycles. Temperatures above this may lead to a loss in fabric modulus or power. The customer should run production trials if temperatures above 225° F (107° C) are being used. RADICISPANDEX Corporation will not be held responsible for damaged fabric if dyeing temperatures above 225° F (107° C) are being used.

 

 

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RECOMMENDED SPANDEX FIBER HANDLING AND

PROCESSING PRACTICES FOR PACKAGES

Opening cases

Care must be exercised not to damage the thread with any sharp instrument that may be used to cut open the carton. Once opened - pull the plastic bag liner over the sides of the case to prevent contact of the spandex with the liner, which could disturb the wind and affect the performance in knitting.

Although not a requirement, some users prefer to open cartons in the same environment in which the spandex will be processed for a period of 24 hours prior to its use.

 

Removal of packages

  • Remove the returnable black separator tray by grasping the handle holds and pulling straight up to prevent contact with the layer of spandex packages below.
  • Grasp the spandex package by positioning the thumb (not thumb nail) in the top center of the package with one or more of the remaining fingers placed inside the tube, again avoid contact with the edges or shoulders of the package.
  • Handle only one package at a time. Stacking, cradling or otherwise transporting more than one tube or cone at a time dramatically increases the likelihood that the package may be bumped and the wind may be disturbed causing running tension variation and breaks.
  • The use of a tray, pin truck or other suitable carrier is recommended for handling multiple packages by one operator.

 

Inspection

Briefly inspect the package for "fall-overs" (spandex ends fallen off the edge of the package).

If "fall-overs" are found, clear by lightly pinching the top center of the package with the thumb and forefinger (do not pinch with fingernails) and pulling the spandex over the edge of the package until a single end remains, or gently roll the "fall-off" ends back onto the surface of the package using the fleshy part of your palm, which must be free of callouses or skin burrs.

 

Creeling and Thread Up

  • Remove empty spandex packages from the let-off rolls and place them aside leaving the threaded spandex end in machine.
  • Place the new full package on the let-off rolls. Tie the threaded end to the loose end on the new package. A square knot is commonly used but other knots are adequate.
  • Once positioned and tied, adjust the tension on the spandex to prevent it spandex from back winding on the let-off rolls, but not an "excessive" amount that would result in breaks due to exceeding the ultimate elongation of the spandex. A good spandex stretch ratio starting point is 3 to 1 (200%), however higher stretch ratios are likely and will be dictated by fabric requirements (stretch, density, % components etc.).
  • When practical, jog knots slowly through before increasing to full speed.

 

Additional Information

Certain circular knit applications (e.g. sheer fabrics) require that all spandex packages be the same size as to prevent the occurrences of a particular type of banding barre'.

Note: Radicispandex packages are metered to ensure even run out.

Over time, all spandex will generate tack (spandex to spandex bonding) and the level of tack developed could affect the performance of the spandex. Therefore the practice of "First In, First Out" is essential. Although Radicispandex has a much longer shelf life, a one month inventory is a good age to effectively manage your inventory.

 

 

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RECOMMENDED KNITTING TENSIONS

AND COVERING DRAFTS

These are recommendations only, and trials should be performed to determine optimum running conditions.

Denier

 Knitting Tensions (gms)

 Covering Drafts

 15

 0 - 1

 2.5 - 2.75x

 20

 0 - 2

 2.5 - 3.35x

 30

 0 - 3

 3.2 - 3.4x

 40

 0 - 4

 3.4 - 3.6x

 55

 0 - 5

 3.4 - 3.6x

 70

 0 - 7

 3.4 - 3.7x

 90

 0 - 7

 3.4 - 3.9x

 105

 0 - 8

 3.4 - 3.9x

 125

 0 - 10

 3.7 - 4.0x

 140

 0 - 10

 3.9 - 4.3x

 

RECOMMENDED WARPING CONDITIONS

Type S-85 spandex is supplied on beams from RADICISPANDEX CORPORATION or the customer can beam the fiber. The following recommendations are offered to our customers to maximize warping efficiency.

 

Yarn Conditioning

  • Condition the yarn for 24 hours in the same room or climate where warping will take place.
  • The temperature in the warping room should be 68 to 72° F (20 to 22° C) and relative humidity of 60 to 65%.

 

Creeling

  • The yarn should be used "first in, first out" as supplied.
  • Do not use packages of different weights, sizes or age.
  • Handle yarn tubes very carefully so that outside layers are not disturbed.
  • Load the yarn randomly in such a manner that tubes from the same box are not positioned next to each other in the warp.
  • Store unused tubes back in their original shipping cartons, protected from light and atmospheric fumes.

 

Pre-tension Elongations - For those warping machines using a pre-tension feature, the pre-tension is a function of the desired final warp beam elongation.

 

Raschel Fabric

For 25% final elongation on beams, use a 70% to 100% pre-tension.

For 50% final elongation on beams, use a 100% to 150% pre-tension.

For warping machines without a pre-tension feature, a standard level of final elongation is 40% to 50%.

 

Tricot Fabric - On 40 denier Type S-85 Spandex, warping stretch should be 50% to 100% depending upon customer preference.

For 70 denier and higher it is recommended to use 50% to 100% final stretch.

 

Care and Handling of Warp Beams

After warping, beams should be wrapped carefully with cellophane or other BHT-free nonporous film to protect the Type S-85 spandex from contaminants during storage and handling. Beams should be kept wrapped and stored in shipping racks until ready for use.

 

General Precautions

Beams left on the knitting machine for any extended downtime should be wrapped in BHT-free nonporous film to protect Type S-85  from contamination and discoloration.

Storage of beams at temperatures above 95° F. (35° C) or below 20° F (-7° C) should be avoided. These temperatures could cause adverse effects on processing performance.

 

 

 RECOMMENDED STORAGE CONDITIONS FOR

PACKAGES AND FABRICS

Type S-85 spandex should be stored in its original packaging until ready for use. Recommended storage conditions are between 40 and 80° F (4 to 27° C). Storage above or below the recommended limits can result in fiber-to-fiber sticking and poor runnability.

  • We recommend using Type S-85 on a First-In, First-Out (FIFO) basis. A general rule-of-thumb for maximum storage time is 6 months.
  • A good standard operating procedure is to condition the yarn in the production area for at least 24 hours, by opening the cartons, before processing.
  • Fabrics containing Type S-85 Spandex should be wrapped in BHT free opaque plastic wrapping in order to protect it from light and atmospheric contaminants. The same storage conditions should be followed as for tubes of Type S-85 spandex. Greige fabrics should be stored no longer than 3 months. Knitting oils could oxidize and be difficult if not impossible to remove during scouring.

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 LAUNDERABILITY AND RESISTANCE

TO DRY CLEANING

Type S-85 spandex fibers are designed to withstand virtually an unlimited number of commercial dry cleaning and pressings, launderings, and tumble dryings.

Type S-85 will answer the requirements of the narrow elastic producers who are receiving increased demands for a truly drycleanable and launderable elastomer for use in sportswear and outerwear.

The major advantages of Type S-85 are as follows:

  • Offers a distinct economic advantage over other drycleanable thread of the synthetic rubber class.
  • Excellent resistance to repeated commercial drycleaning and pressing, repeated laundering and tumble drying.
  • Type S-85 has been awarded the CERTIFIED DRYCLEANABLE SEAL by the International Fabricare Institute. They far surpass the IFI requirements for retention elastic properties after repeated drycleaning in perchlorethylene, including tumble drying and steam pressing.
  • Will withstand regular steam and dry heat pressing (360° F (182° C) for 15 seconds) used on permanent press garments.

 

In crochet-type or knitted elastic fabrics containing a high inlay of Type S-85 spandex (ex: 8 to 9 inches of spandex fiber in 10 inches of elastic), the heat resistance factor is excellent. Tests run at 250 to 300° F (121 to 149° C) show excellent modulus retention.

Heat Exposure / Fiber

2 hrs. at 275° F (135° C) / Nylon

2 hrs. at 300° F (149° C) / Set Polyester

Koratron Process - 325° F (163° C), 30 minutes / Set Polyester

Percent Modulus Retained

80 - 90

90 - 100

85 - 90

 

 

MERGE NUMBERS AND I.D. NUMBERS

A merge number is a group to which fiber production is assigned based on properties and dyeability. All fibers within a merge can be expected to behave uniformly, and for this reason, can be mixed or used interchangeably.

RadiciSpandex Corporation rarely introduces a new merge of its products. When a new merge is required, the compatibility of old and new merge products is verified within RadiciSpandex's laboratory. Due to the number of different end uses and applications along with differences that exist from operation to operation (dyeing and finishing procedures, auxiliary chemicals, dyes etc.) it is not possible to absolutely guarantee every scenario from the testing performed in our laboratory.

Therefore it is recommended that either merge numbers be kept completely segregated, to eliminate all concern, or a trial be conducted, in each customers "unique" operation, to verify the compatibility between merge numbers.

"I.D." (Identification) Numbers

Product "I.D." numbers can be used to control inventory consumption. The middle two digits in the I.D. number represent the week of the year that the spandex was produced and should be used for proper inventory rotation (First In, First Out). The shelf life of Type S-85 spandex products is excellent, but maintaining a consistently aged inventory is advisable which will translate to a smooth running operation (maintaining the minimum quantity of spandex to satisfy your consumption needs is always advisable). RADICISPANDEX is committed to and capable of servicing customer’s consumption needs by providing just-in-time delivery. Therefore, there is no need to stock excessive inventory in anticipation of program demands.

Maintaining a "First In, First Out" inventory should eliminate product compatibility issues. Please consult with a RADICI Technical Customer Services representative if you are unsure of how to use product I.D. numbers to manage "First In, First Out" inventory controls which best suit the sensitivities of your particular application.

 

 

STANDARD PACKAGING

Product

Tube Weight Gross (grams) Number of Tubes/Case Packaging Material Weight,  lbs. / kgs. (Carton, Separators and Cores) Case Nominal Net Weight lbs. / kgs. Tube nominal Dimension Outer Diameter inches / cm. Core Dimension Length Inner Diameter inches / cm

15 Denier

333-351

96

30.5 / 13.8

60.3 / 27.3

5 / 12.7

L - 2.25 / 5.72

ID - 2.85 / 7.24

20 Denier

350 - 377

96

30.5 / 13.8

64.9 / 29.4

5.13 / 13.0

L - 2.25 / 5.72

ID - 2.85 / 7.24

30 Denier

393 - 432

96

30.5 / 13.8

75.2 / 34.1

5.38 / 13.6

L - 2.25 / 5.72

ID - 2.85 / 7.24

40 Denier 1.1#

526 - 569

96

30.5 / 13.8

103.8 / 47.0

6 / 15.2

L - 2.25 / 5.72

ID - 2.85 / 7.24

40 Denier 1.6#

748 - 811

64

26.3 / 11.9

101.9 / 46.2

7 / 18

L - 2.25 / 5.72

ID - 2.85 / 7.24

55 Denier

522 - 565

96

30.5 / 13.8

103.0 / 46.7

6 / 15.2

L - 2.25 / 5.72

ID - 2.85 / 7.24

70 Denier

522 - 573

96

30.5 / 13.8

103.8 / 47.0

6 / 15.2

L - 2.25 / 5.72

ID - 2.85 / 7.24

105 Denier

500 - 541

96

30.5 / 13.8

98.0 / 44.4

6 / 15.2

L - 2.25 / 5.72

ID - 2.85 / 7.24

140 W Denier

1058 - 1152

48

25.3 / 11.4

104.4 / 47.3

6.13 / 15.6

L - 2.25 / 5.72

ID - 2.85 / 7.24

140 P Denier

1399 - 1527

32

21.0 / 9.5

94.9 / 43.0

7 / 18

L - 2.25 / 5.72

ID - 2.85 / 7.24

 

Note: Standard case dimensions for above products - 27.5L x 22.12W x 19H inches (70L x 56.1W x 48.2H cm). Note: Empty 2.25 Inch Tube Nominal Weight = 57 grams Note: Empty 4.5 Inch Tube Weight = 118 grams For other details, please call your Sales Representative or Customer Services.

 

TUBE COLOR REFERENCE

 TUBE COLOR

PINK BLUE ORANGE GREEN PURPLE TURQUOISE

DENIER

15 - merge 001

70 - merge 001

125 - merge 001

20 - merge 001

40 - merge 002

105 - merge 001

30 - merge 001

40 - merge 001

140 - merge 001

55 - merge 001

 

 

SUMMARY

As a supplier of spandex fiber, RadiciSpandex Corporation will provide its customers, and prospective customers, technical assistance and information relative to our spandex products.

RADICISPANDEX'S TECHNICAL CUSTOMER SERVICE STAFF has equipment to handle problems from warping and covering to dyeing, finishing and complete analysis and testing.

Inquiries are most welcome.

We believe this information to be the most factual on the subject. It is offered as a suggestion to minimize problems in the processing of natural latex rubber thread fibers. No guarantee is expressed or implied.

Our TECHNICAL SERVICE STAFF is readily available for any specific consultation or assistance on the subject.

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